All posts in Flemish Art City Trails

Introduction
Antwerp is the one Flemish art destination that that has a genuine big city vibe to it. Still one of the world’s leading commercial hubs, from shipping to diamonds, there is an edgy excitement here, a feeling of pushing the boundaries; be it in the radical redevelopment of its docklands to a restaurant run by refugees, a hothouse for cutting-edge fashion, while even their venerable Fine Arts Museum has been reborn, transformed into a venue that questions and challenges.

Of course, visitors will be transfixed by the breathtaking Gothic guild halls lining the magnificent town square, flamboyant Baroque churches filled with artistic treasures, the romantic mansion that was home and creative studio of Antwerp’s most famous son, the renowned 16th century painter, Peter Paul Rubens. But it does not take long to discover an alternative Antwerp, a hive of creative activity in the worlds of modern art, fashion and design, a goldmine for foodies who can choose between a traditional estaminet bistrot serving hearty Flemish home cooking, an historic brewery that hosts artisan food makers, to a deconsecrated church that now hosts a Michelin-starred fine dining restaurant.

Must See 
Royal Museum of Fine Arts Antwerp

Antwerp’s majestic fine arts museum, known to everyone here by its Flemish acronym, KMSKA, is housed in a statuesque colonnaded building, inaugurated over 200 years ago, but which remained closed for 11 long years until a glittering reopening in September 2022. This massive €100 million renovation took a brave sustainable solution of adapting the old building rather than opting for a new construction. So although the exterior is unchanged, for those who knew the KMSKA before, this is quite simply a totally new, revolutionary museum. A staggering 40% extra exhibition space has been added in an ultra white minimalist new wing, which is essentially reserved for modernist post 1880 artworks, while the famous floors with creaky parquet and rich deeply- coloured galleries remain as before to showcase the unparalleled collection of Flemish Old Masters.

For those looking for enhanced viewing there are tactile, audio and multimedia options all through the museum, and even smart phones are available to read the numerous QR code captions for visitors who are not internet-connected. The team of curators here have been ambitious to create a museum that continually challenges its visitors.

So be prepared to see a signature Brueghel painting in the middle of the Modernist section, or dotted between Old Masters, a video by Bill Viola or one of Jean-Michel Basquiat’s hallmark paintings, then an eye-catching surreal sculpture aligned alongside sombre religious images. You always have to keep your wits about you not to miss something and this all adds up to an unforgettable experience.

MoMu
Antwerp has an international reputation for nurturing future generations of the world’s fashion designers that has its roots in the spectacular success of the radical, provocative and nonconformist Antwerp Six who put their home city firmly on the map as a global capital of La Mode. The Six were all graduates of the Royal Academy of Fine Arts whose fashion school today continues to produce fashion stars of the future.

For visitors today, there are chic boutiques showcasing designs by the original instigators, the likes of Dries Van Noten, Ann Demeulemeester and Walter Van Beirendonck, but to put your finger on the pulse of what is happening today in the Antwerp fashion scene, the place to visit is MoMu, a museum housing the world’s largest collection of contemporary Belgian designs.

With two exciting, immersive temporary exhibitions a year, displays from the permanent collection, as well as smaller installations and presentations, MoMu offers both a snapshot of present trends of today’s students, retrospectives of its acclaimed alumni and a global vision with blockbuster shows like ‘Man Ray and Fashion’.

Hidden Gems 
Nottebohmzaal
There is always a crowd of tourists milling around the picturesque Hendrik Conscienceplein in the heart of historic Antwerp. The square is dominated by the immense, ornate facade of the city’s most famous Baroque church, St Charles Borromeo. Described as Heaven on Earth and originally featuring a host of masterpieces by Rubens, this is naturally where most people head for. Yet in a quiet corner of the square , there is the far more discrete entrance to the Stadsbibliotheek.

But this is no normal library, as it also has hidden away, the magical Nottebohm Room, only recently opened for individual visits by the general public. This venerable city library incredibly dates back to 1481, and the Nottebohm was created as a ceremonial room to house the most precious editions and rare terrestrial globes.

Spreading over two floors, linked by a spiral staircase, the atmosphere resembles a holy site where everyone speaks in hushed tones, the loudest noise the squeaky creaking of the floorboards.

Handelsbeurs

At the beginning of the 16th century, Antwerp was Europe’s prime trading city, host to some 10,000 merchants. So it was the obvious venue when the world’s first stock exchange was founded in 1531. The Antwerp Bourse has had an eventful history, twice burnt down, rebuilt in 1872 in stunning Neo-Gothic architecture, and today is one of the city’s most surprising discoveries.

Noisy traders no longer buy and sell the world’s commerce here, as the flamboyant wall murals mapping out the world, ornate arches, arcades and an intricate glass ceiling are now open for everyone to visit when an exhibition is being held, as the Handelsbeurs is now one of Antwerp’s most prestigious exhibition and events space. It also hosts the hip Fiera bar and restaurant, which occupies much of what was the trading floor for cargo boats coming through Antwerp.The perfect place to pop in for a cafe or cocktail, lunch or dinner and soak up the atmosphere of this unique building.

St Paul’s Church
While Baroque art lovers touring Antwerp will inevitably head straight for the celebrated St Charles Borromeo church, it is wise to leave some time to visit the quieter yet equally spectacular church of St Paul, located in the old seamen’s quarter near the bank of the Scheldt river.

Rather than the facade, first impressions here are dominated by what is known as The Calvary. The outside of the church is marked by some 63 life-size statues, an early 18th century sculpture garden that could rival any of today’s contemporary art installations, created by Dominican friars to persuade the good citizens of Antwerp to make a pilgrimage to the Holy Land.

The interiors are a veritable art gallery of Old Masters by the revered Antwerp School of Painters, including Rubens, Van Dyck and Jordaens.

And a quiet moment, without crowds of visitors, contemplating the church’s most famous series of paintings, the 15 Mysteries of the Rosary, there is definitely a different emotional experience in viewing these masterpieces in the original location they were created for centuries before, rather than impersonally hanging on a museum wall.

Local Foodies         
De Koninck

Go into any bar in Antwerp and most people will be sipping a glass of Bolleke or Tripel d’Anvers, brewed since 1833 at the city’s iconic De Koninck brewery.

The whitewashed buildings that house the brewery are open to the public for a fun interactive, multi-media tour which includes videos, a birds-eye view of the brewers at work and ends with a tasting session in their cosy pub. But today the premises are not just for brewing beer as De Koninck have invited in a select band of foodie artisans to set up shop. Begin at Only Cheese, a specialist cheesemonger, with The Butcher’s Store next door filled with tasty charcuterie and sausages. Jitsk creates chocolate pralines and ice creams, while for a proper meal, choose between the Michelin-starred Butcher’s Son restaurant, whose homemade Vol-au-Vent is to die for, or walk up to the rooftop where Black Smoke specialise in barbecues.

PAKT
Outside the sightseeing centre of Antwerp, a visit to this unique green project is a must for curious foodies. While the label of sustainable ecosystem is easily used today, it is rare to discover a venue that is both genuine and successful. PAKT started out in 2006 when local entrepreneurs turned a derelict warehouse over to artists and musicians.

Today that has grown into a thriving alternative community where locals and tourists can come and drink barista coffee at Racine Pakt or craft ales at Spéciale Belge microbrewery, then discover the healthy plant-based vegetarian and vegan dishes at hip diner Camionette.

Tours are available for PAKT’s groundbreaking projects to transform the warehouse rooftop into an urban farm where over 100 locals from the neighbourhood now grow their vegetables, herbs and raise chickens. You can even book a stay up there on the at UFO Airport, a chalet-style bed&breakfast.

Green Space 
Garden of Museum Plantin-Moretus

The discrete Plantin-Moretus museum, palatial home and business premises of an early 16th century publishing house, is dedicated to the complex craft and technique of printing and typography, and could easily be classed as one of Antwerp’s hidden gems, especially since it became an official Unesco World Heritage site in 2005. But once you have wandered through the intriguing maze of rooms filled with ancient books, a rare Rubens painting, and some of the world’s oldest printing presses, leave some time to enjoy the tiny gem of a garden that has been planted within the ornate century Flemish Renaissance courtyard.

The garden has always attracted visitors even since the 17th century and the plants, herbs and flowers that prosper there today were probably very similar to those first planted 4 centuries ago. Antwerp’s green spaces tend to be quite small, such as the compact Botanicus and Beguinage gardens, but as the Plantin-Moretus garden changes appearance with the seasons, there is always something to appreciate whatever time of the year you visit.

Markets 
Exotic Market

While fashionista visitors looking for chic vintage bargains may be drawn more to city’s tempting flea markets like the one help each Sunday at the Sint-Jansvliet square, to enjoy an authentic slice of Antwerp life be sure to pass by on a Saturday at the Theaterplein square which is filled with colourful stalls and eateries for the day, known to everyone simply as The Exotic Market. While locals are busy doing their shopping for the rest of the week, visitors can sit out at oyster bars, order creamy shrimp croquettes and sip a glass of Belgian bubbly.

While you can take home Flemish cheeses, smoked ham and sausages, the market also lives up to its Exotic name as there vendors from Turkey and Morocco, Greece and Italy, with stands piled high with olives, fresh mint and coriander, pita bread, tacos and spicy Vietnamese spring rolls.

Out of Town 
Middelheimmuseum

A half hour bus ride for Antwerp’s Central Station takes you to the edge of the city at the gates of a verdant public garden where across some 30 acres over 400 artworks are displayed in one of the world’s oldest outdoor sculpture. Middelheim launched a sculpture Biennale in 1951, and since 1989 has been transformed into an open air museum with a stellar permanent collection complemented by eye-catching temporary exhibitions.

Wander through the lawns and woodland, past ponds and streams to discover installations from the likes of Calder, Hans Arp, Henry Moore and Rodin to ‘The Bridge Without a Name’ by contemporary Chinese artist Ai WeiWei. There is also a small botanical garden, Hortiflora, which has a contemporary glass pavilion exhibiting not exotic hot house plants but avant-garde sculptures.
 
Food and Drink 
Instroom  

The location of this unique dining concept is stunning, set in the heart of Antwerp’s revitalised docklands neighbourhood amidst old warehouses, modern architecture, tall wind turbines. In the worker’s canteen of a former redbrick boat repair workshop next door to an ancient black cargo boat sitting in dry dock.

A project of celebrated chef Seppe Nobels, Instroom offers an integrated place in society to refugee immigrants trying to make their home in Antwerp, who are employed and trained in the kitchen and dining room, serving cuisine that reflects their global backgrounds. So don’t be surprised to see Iranian and Iraqi chefs, Afghani kitchen helpers chopping up vegetables and rolling köfte meatballs, a lady from Guinea deep-frying Jerusalem artichokes.

And each dish is served by its chef who explains the roots of the recipe and their personal story. Down below the dining room, check out the Plasticarium, a recycling workshop to educate kids about ecology and plastic, while on the ground floor there is a funky waterside cafe.

Tazu
Just four months after it opened last year the surprising Tazu found itself elected best bar in Belgium by the Gault & Millau Guide. It is certainly a unique watering hole, presuming you find the entrance, hidden away down a dark passageway that comes out in a closed medieval courtyard.

Tazu stretches across a series of high-ceilinged rooms of an historic 1462 mansion, once home to the traders of the Hanseatic League, the floors are paved with ancient lithographic printing stones, contemporary art decorates some walls, others left bare and untouched, part of the designer Axel Vervoordt’s concept of Beauty by Imperfection. There is nothing imperfect about the exquisite Japanese cuisine, accompanied by innovative cocktails that include a Flemish Negroni, using local genever gin and exotic plum sake.

Invincible
Chef Kenny Burssens’s brilliant bistrot is an Antwerp foodie institution, especially one of rare addresses open on a Monday evening when his lively open kitchen counter bar is packed with off duty Michelin-starred chefs and top sommeliers from the city’s chic gastronomic addresses.

Kenny animatedly supervises his brigade of cooks, breaking off to enthusiastically pour a glass from his outstanding selection of wines. The cuisine creatively uses classic Flemish ingredients, like sautéing crunchy Brussels sprouts with intense bone marrow or pairing a chunky steak of line-fished cod with the crunchy salty sea vegetable, salicorne.

Arty Stay 
Pilar

Few Flemish cities can compare to Antwerp when it comes to choosing a fashionable, artistic place to say, be it a luxurious palace like Botanic Sanctuary, a former convent transformed into the cool August boutique hotel or a hip designer bed and breakfast like De Witte Lelie.

To be close to the newly reopened Fine Arts Museum, Pilar is the perfect address, a stylish white townhouse whose 17 rooms all have their own designs, furnished with a mix of vintage decor and and modern fine art paintings.

INTRODUCTION
The quiet, serene Flemish city of Mechelen is the perfect destination for art, culture and food lovers seeking a secret, under-the-radar haven that is genuinely unspoilt, where there is no need to compete with crowds of tourists when visiting museums or while taking a precious, solitary moment to contemplate a centuries-old religious painting in a secluded corner of an ancient church.

The city has a glorious past stretching back through the Renaissance to Age of Enlightenment, and it is a pleasure to stroll through its cobbled backstreets tracking down a medieval Beguinage, or wander along the banks of the winding Dyle river, stopping to listen to the magical peal of carillon bells. This is a contemporary Art City too, with avant-garde galleries showcasing the local creative scene, and notable pioneering urban initiatives converting historic buildings into modern museums, art and film centres, always with a lively bar or restaurant as this is also somewhere where the locals really know how to enjoy themselves, and entertain travellers that head here off the beaten track.

Must See
St Rumbold’s Tower & Cathedral

No matter where you are walking through Mechelen, there is always the statuesque tower of Saint Rumbolt’s cathedral, defining the city as it majestically rises up above the skyline.

The soaring vaulted interiors of the cathedral boast a significant collection of old masters, particularly Lucas Faydherbe’s Baroque high altar, paintings by Anthony van Dyck and a curious, enigmatic Black Madonna.

Before leaving, though, most visitors head for the narrow, steep winding staircase that slowly climbs its way up to the top of the Unesco World Heritage tower. The reward is an unparalleled view from the 97 metre high skywalk over Mechelen and the surrounding countryside and often the chance to hear the chimes of Saint Rumbold’s famous carillon bells. Just be aware there is no lift, only 524 stairs each way, fortunately with plenty of stages for stop offs.

Kazerne Dossin
During the Nazi occupation of Mechelen during World War Two, the Dossin military barracks were converted into a transit camp for the deportation of Jews, gypsies and homosexuals to concentration camps.

Today, the barracks are the site of an holocaust memorial, while across the road stands a monumental museum and documentation centre inaugurated in 2012. A stark, austere concrete pentagon, this landmark building addresses not just historical persecution during World War Two in Belgium and Northern France with an intense and educative exhibition of their permanent collection, but also holds temporary shows dedicated to human rights abuses across the globe.

A tour through the four floors is an emotional experience, especially when you witness the reactions of the many visiting school groups, but you end the visit with a unique eye-witness view of what life was like in this wartime era. The visit ends with panoramic views from the open rooftop terrace, a perfect moment for quiet personal reflection.

Hidden Gems
Het Kunstuur
In the age of immersive art exhibitions, virtual and enhanced reality guides, the creators of Mechelen’s Het Kunstuur – The Culture Hour – have succeeded in coming up with a new, highly original idea.

This small, intimate gallery has a regularly-changing programme presenting temporary exhibitions that feature just 20 paintings. The aim is to publicise and promote local Flemish artists, and the visitor is asked to join an obligatory hour long tour. At first everything begins as in a normal museum with everyone putting on an audio guide, but as the group passes from salon to salon, at some point the lights go out, artworks are individually illuminated, and the voiceover explaining each artwork, usually a well-known Flemish personality, suddenly comes to life as a speaking, moving computer-generated avatar.

After the experience most people adjourn right opposite to Het Kunstuur’s funky cafe.

Museum Hof van Busleyden

To get a feeling for the glory days of Mechelen’s proud history, take a tour of the museum housed in this splendid red-brick palace. It dates back to the 15th century, when the city was immensely wealthy through the cloth trade and the official capital of the Low Countries, ruled by the Dukes of Burgundy, and encompassing parts of modern Belgium, Luxembourg and Holland. The palace once welcomed princes, emperors, and Renaissance intellectuals like Erasmus and Sir Thomas More. Today the building is dedicated to the history of the city. Much of the permanent collection will only be on show towards the end of 2023 when a huge renovation programme is completed, but until the summer, don’t miss the temporary Hidden Gems exhibition.

The palace basement has been emptied to create an open space venue filled with 100 objects illustrating 700 years of Mechelen history – medieval religious paintings, traditional carnival giants, contemporary sculptures, 20th century artworks.

Het Predikheren
In another example of how this city creatively uses its urban heritage architecture, the municipal library is housed in a beautifully restored Baroque monastery.

Het Predikheren refers to the Preachers monastic movement, another name for the Dominican Order, who built a church here in the mid 17th century. The religious complex was closed down during the French Revolution, then used as both a military hospital and troop barracks before being abandoned for 50n years before its present transformation into a contemporary library and cultural hub. Right from the day the doors opened, Het Predikheren has taken a unique place in the town’s life that extends far beyond its collection of books.

This is a vibrant meeting place that attracts curious travellers as well as locals, with a casual bar and cafe that extends out into a cloistered terrace alongside a gourmet restaurant, while the space also hosts art exhibitions, dance and music performances.

Local Foodies
De Vleeshalle Foodmarket

A majestic bulls head marks the entrance to Mechelen’s historic 1881 Meat Hall. Though no longer a butcher’s market, the immense building has today is reborn as a vibrant emporium for cosmopolitan food stalls that has become a firm favourite with locals for a tasty, reasonably-priced lunch. Be sure to arrive at midday as the comfy sofas and chairs surrounding the stalls fill up quickly each day.

Hardly surprising when you can choose from local specialities – oysters, shrimp croquettes, and of course frites – to chefs cooking exotic dishes from Mexico, the Mediterranean, Morocco, South Africa, and even homebaked Irish pies. For drinks, choose from from barista coffee, fruit smoothies, Belgian craft ales and organic wines. After your meal, take the staircase up above the bustling ground floor to discover sustainable boutiques and cool coworking spaces.

Schockaert

The name Schockaert is synonymous with cheese in Mechelen. Founded more that a century ago by the great grandfather of Sophie and Ann Schockaert, the flagship cheesemongers of these two sisters occupies the ground floor of an ancient merchants house right on Mechelen’s main shopping drag, IJzerenleen, and stocks a tempting array of some 220 different cheeses. Originally this was a classic dairy, selling eggs and milk, delivering around town on a horse and cart, but today, they also stock traditional Flemish charcuterie.

Most of the cheeses are organic, and the Schockaert’s have long-standing relationships with many farmers in the surrounding region. Two local specialities not to be missed are Brouwerskaas, where a Mechelen-brewed beer is added to the milk curd, and Mechelier, a cows cheese whose skin is rubbed with a potent Trippel ale.

Markets
Saturday Grote Markt

Every Saturday morning you will find Mechelen townsfolk passing through its bustling weekly market on the Grote Markt, the city’s landmark square lined with elaborate medieval and Baroque mansions, a towering Gothic cathedral in the background, one side taken up entirely by the palatial 16th century town hall and belfry. The market stalls are piled high with a cornucopia of locally-farmed products like endives, sprouts asparagus, and at poultry stands be sure to look out for the Mechelse Koekoek, the famous Mechelen chicken known as a ‘cuckoo’ for its distinctive black and white feathers that you will find on gastronomic restaurant menus all over Flanders. And the Grote Markt is surrounded by lively bars, the perfect place to grab a sunny pavement table try a glass of the signature Gouden Carolus beer made at the local Het Anker brewery.

Green Space
Dyle Towpath
Traditional towpaths run along the bank of a waterway, used in the past by horses to pull cargo barges, transformed today into bike and hiking paths.

But visitors to Mechelen always get a surprise the first time they see the River Dyle’s futuristic towpath as it literally floats above the water. For the perfect green experience, start out with a walk through the 19th century Kruidtuin, originally the Botanical Gardens, today a verdant public park of lakes and flower gardens, an outdoor venue for a big summer music festival.

From the park cross the Fontein Bridge onto the floating ramp that follows the river into the town centre. Dipping under the ancient Hoog bridge and past a juxtaposition of contemporary and historical buildings, cross over the pedestrian Lamot Bridge into what was once the old fish market and then enjoy a drink on the waterside terrace of the town’s most genuine Brown Cafe, De Gouden Vis.

Out of Town
Batteliek
Either put on your walking boots for a 4 kilometre hike or hire a bike at Mechelen’s train station to follow the picturesque towpath along the bank of the Vaart waterway as far as the sleepy rural hamlet of Battel.

You can’t miss a sign for the unique Batteliek craft brewery, housed in what was once the local church. All the Batteliek ales, fruit juices and craft gin are made right here, and while the decor follows a fun, surreal Monty Pythonesque theme, state-of-the-art vats are massed at the end, and the kitchen serves up a tasty mix of pizzas and burgers, cheesecake and brownies.

Open barely a year, they have created 15 different beers, with 7 on tap, and enthusiasts can sign up to a brewing workshop while more ambitious gypsy brewers are allowed in to create their own small-batch recipes. While locals love the classic Belgian pilsner, don’t miss more brews like an unusual pastry stout or a coffee porter.

Food & drink
Lux 28
A newcomer on Mechelen’s entertainment scene, the Lux complex opened in October 2021 in an opulent colonnaded 1831 mansion.

Today there is the arthouse Cinema Lumière on the ground floor, while up above is Lux 28, a cool bar that has the feel of a private club, a secret address for local cinema-lovers, occasionally discovered by curious tourists. Apart from serving craft beers, wine and cocktails, accompanied by sharing tapas, this is also a venue devoted to exhibitions by local artists, with plans to host small concerts

The Chick

The Chick is a wining and dining venue that surprises from start to finish. Hidden away in a 16th centre building adjacent to the iconic St Rumbold’s tower, this is a restaurant with no written menu and enthusiastic foodies place their faith in the chef as the kitchen prepares only surprise set menus.

The creative cuisine uses local produce like Namur escargots, North Sea hake and plump lobster cooked in a savoury risotto, complemented by a wide-ranging cosmopolitan wine list. A steep flight of steps heads down to a cosy vaulted wine bar, while cheeses are aged in an ancient medieval cellar.

Het Anker Brasserie

Mechelen’s venerable independent brewery offers a beer tour for visitors, a discreet hotel to stay in, tastings of its ales and the whiskey it distills on the premises.

And to sample classics of local cuisine there is also the cosy brasserie restaurant, which proposes both dishes cooked with Het Anker’s beers, a beer pairing menu, and both bread and cheeses that are made with beer! Not to be missed are the Flemish beef stew braised in Gouden Carolus Classic beer served with frites and ‘chicons’, braised endives, or Mechelen’s famous ‘Coucou’ chicken, in a creamy sauce with asparagus and potato croquettes.

Arty Stay
Martin’s Patershof

Hidden away on a quiet backstreet just off the Dyle river stands a towering red-brick neo-Gothic church, where surprisingly taxis stop to drop-off savvy travellers who are checking into the most unique place to stay in Mechelen. Now made over a luxury boutique hotel, guests can choose a comfortable room in their modern annexe or splash out on one of the sumptuous suites in the main church building, complete with stained glass windows, carved stone pillars and arched vaults. The biggest surprise comes when you enter the majestic breakfast hall with its opulent altarpiece and religious paintings.

INTRODUCTION

It is difficult to imagine a Flemish Art City as seductive as Bruges. Travellers from around the world are drawn here by its irresistible combination of scenic canals crisscrossed by ancient stone bridges, wonderfully preserved medieval houses and mansions linked by cobbled lanes that at times resemble a romantic maze of dolls houses, alongside spectacular public buildings, monuments, belfry and churches that have long been recognised as UNESCO World Heritage.

The city’s rich artistic heritage dates back to its golden era as one of Europe’s richest towns beginning in the Middle Ages, where promoting art and culture went hand in hand with amassing fortunes through trade. But this is also just one face of the city compared to what can be discovered if the visitor takes the time to look behind the picturesque facade and spend a couple of days in the city. Modern architecture is symbolised by the stunning red Concert Hall, but this is just the tip of the iceberg of the eye-catching urban renewal going on throughout the city. To discover these contemporary hotspots around the city, just download and follow the tourist office’s innovative new Route App, Oooh! Bruges. For eating out, beyond the popular cuisine of mussels and frites, Bruges boasts one of the most vibrant gastronomic scenes in Flanders, from Michelin-starred fine dining to funky diners creating contemporary takes on traditional dishes.

Groeningemuseum

While the early rooms take the breath away with masterpieces by Jan van Eyck, Memling and Bosch, there is a genuine momentum to the tour as visitors pass from the unforgettable scenes painted by Pieter Breughel the Younger through the Renaissance and Baroque eras, upto modern 20th century gems by Magritte, Delvaux, Ensor and Rik Wouters, as well as a unique collection of the surreal printed works of Marcel Broodthaers.

Apart from regular temporary exhibitions there are ambitious long-term plans for the year 2025 with the city planning to open BRUSK, an artistic hotspot for young artists, a new innovative exhibition hall, while at the same time making the museum site ecologically sustainable.

Church of Our Lady

As you enter the majestic Church of Our Lady it initially resembles a rather austere, bare Gothic church. An ancient painting depicting the interior hangs at the entrance of the nave and nothing seems to have changed over the centuries. But the tension builds as first you pass early examples of Flemish primitive paintings, then the impressive medieval tombs of Mary of Burgundy and her father, Charles the Bold, before you approach the subdued corner holding the precious white marble statue of the Madonna and Child created by Michelangelo in 1504.

It was the only work of the master that left Italy during his lifetime, bought by a wealthy Bruges merchant. Twice the priceless sculpture has disappeared, taken by Napoleon and installed in Paris, then stolen for Hitler’s personal collection, heading for Nazi Germany before the intervention of the Allied Army’s Monument Men team. So once you come face to face with this Renaissance masterpiece it is quite an emotional experience, and although there are always people who go as close as they can to snap photos on their mobile phones, many prefer to sit a discrete distance away, to take their time to better appreciate the intensity and power of this immaculate creation.

Hidden Gems
Concertgebouw Brugge

Built to commemorate the coronation of Bruges as European Capital of Culture back in 2002, this stunning concert hall remains the landmark symbol of modern, contemporary Bruges contrasting with the medieval heritage of the city. While the ultimate way to appreciate this unique concert hall is to attend one of its almost nightly performances, there is also a brilliant backstage tour, the Concertgebouw Circuit that operates most days. Going up and down narrow stairs normally reserved for the staff, you pass what look like carillon bells but are actually avant-garde loudspeakers. There are permanent and temporary exhibitions hanging on the wall, you can sit down and enjoy videos of concert performances, watch a conceptual film on sound, climb high into the roof to peek in on the main hall with a birds-eye view even if a concert or rehearsal is going on.

Then you arrive at the area known as the Sound Factory, where children are enchanted as they touch metal tubes to make musical sounds, or enter the psychedelic Omni room and punch a mushroom-like device to compose a tune using your own choice of instrument. Music is everywhere, even when you reach the open rooftop with a set of carillon bells that you can chime yourself.

The Adornes Estate
Walking along the narrow cobbled lanes running out of the centre of Bruges, you pass the whitewashed walls that hide the idyllic gardens and cottages of the 17th century Elisabeth Zorghe Almshouse – a Godshuis. Then a strange redbrick medieval church tower with a wooden cupola catches your eye that is clearly older than many of the city’s buildings.

Dating back to 1429 this the Jerusalem Chapel, built by the wealthy Adornes family, imitating the Holy Land’s Church of the Holy Sepulchre. 17 generations later, the same family still own the whole domaine which includes a museum, almshouses, gardens and even a welcoming lounge where visitors can serve themselves a cup of tea or coffee.

Wandering through this peaceful private domaine conjures up images of Crusader Knights in the Holy Land and medieval tournaments the Adornes family used to organise, a tradition that continues today with ancient archery guilds based along the street. And if the guest salon with its tartan sofas seem more Scottish than Flemish that is explained in the museum, detailing how the 15th century Anselm Adornes became as powerful a landowner in Scotland as in Bruges.

Gruuthuse Museum

Entering the noble archway that stands on the bank of the Dijver and coming face to face with the opulent palace created in the 15th century by Louis of Gruuthuse it is difficult to imagine that all this wealth and splendour was financed by the family monopoly of the trade of ‘gruut’ a magic recipe of herbs to flavour beer before brewers discovered how to use hops. The ‘gruut’ was stored here in a warehouse, leading them to change their name to ‘gruuthouse’. Today, walking through the maze of rooms that spread over the palace’s three floors gives the feeling of a privileged snapshot of the sumptuous lives of the nobility in Bruges. Like the great merchants of Venice with their opulent palazzi, the Gruuthuse family used their wealth to promote culture and art in Bruges, and a tour of the house stretches from the 15th to 19th centuries, past lavish Flemish tapestries and delicate lace, Gothic stained glass, porcelain and ceramics, musical instruments and period furniture.

Markets
Wednesday Market

Bruges boasts one of the grandest town squares in Flanders, marked by a flamboyant Neo-Gothic government building and the iconic 13th century Belfry that rises almost 100 metres above the city skyline. The square is always vibrant, lined by bustling bars and cafes, but the Grote Markt really comes alive every Wednesday morning when all of Bruges seems to converge here for the weekly market.

Stalls are piled high with a cornucopia of local seasonal produce; fruit and vegetables direct from nearby farms, cheeses, aged ham and smoky sausages, noisy North Sea fishmongers, flowers bursting with colour.

And it is difficult to avoid the temptation to join the line outside the ‘frituur’ – chip stand – for a portion of piping hot frites topped with a dollop of mayonnaise.

Local Foodies
Bourgogne des Flandres
Right in the heart of historic Bruges, with a waterside terrace opposite the Groeninge museum, this venerable brewery was founded back in 1765, named in honour of the era when the Dukes of Burgundy ruled over the city. Still brewed onsite, Bourgogne des Flandres is a unique beer that blends of two very different ales; a Lambic which adds sourness, and the sweeter Brown Ox.

The informative brewery tour, unaccompanied but with an audio guide, includes the chance to chat and ask questions of the brewers themselves while they are working, and afterwards everyone heads for the bar with 7 beers on tap with a simple but tasty menu of Bruges cheeses and charcuterie.

Brew Master, Thomas Vandelanotte, explains that “we are also an experimental brewhouse, always trying new recipes out and making small batches that we try out on the customers that come on the visit, and who knows, they may become one of our future signature ales.”

Diksmuids Boterhuis

Open since 1933, the name of this inviting delicatessen actually refers to the butter made by the founders at their dairy in the nearby town of Diksmuide. The Butter House has changed over the last century, and is run today by the third generation Isabelle Verhelle, a Master Cheesemonger who gave up her high-powered job managing an hotel to run the family business. They no longer just sell butter, and Isabelle’s range of cheeses changes each week depending on the season, with roughly 300 different varieties, showcasing specialities made by local farmers, like Brugge Gold, a creamy cows cheese from nearby Damme, Oudlander, a goats cheese made by the coast at De Haan, aged Old Brugge and a tangy Belgian Blue from Ghent.

She also works with artisan butchers who produce her famous salami-style sausages. And be sure to ask if she has made her famous cod fish salad as loyal customers say it is better than anything you find at the fish shop.

Green Space
Beguinage and Minnewaterpark

Founded nearly 8 centuries ago, the ‘Princely Beguinage Ten Wijngaarde’ to give this Unesco World Heritage site its official name, is a bucolic green oasis in the historical heart of Bruges, perfect for a break from museum sightseeing.

In spring, the simple cottages of the Benedictine nuns who still reside here look out over verdant lawns that are transformed into a giant flower bed of blooming daffodils. From the Beguinage cross the tiny canal bridge to immediately enter the Minnewaterpark, the perfect spot for a romantic stroll, lunch in a castle restaurant or casual waterside picnic by the Minnewater itself, the Lake of Love.

The park stretches all the way to the city ramparts and is especially popular in summer as a venue for outdoor concerts.

Out of Town

Damme
It is no exaggeration to say that the countryside begins right at the ancient ramparts that encircle the city of Bruges. Hire a bike and follow the cycle paths that begin at the Minnewaterpark and soon you are on your way past waterways, windmills and green meadows towards the ancient town of Damme, once the port of Bruges back in the 12th century.

The 10 kilometre ride runs along the bank of the picturesque Damse Vaart canal that continues all the way to the Dutch border.

Damme is an idyllic village, famous for its bookshops, a giant paddle steamer moored on the quayside and above all its craft microbreweries and cosy gourmet restaurants like the Michelin-starred De Zuidkant, where foodies come from afar for the speciality local dish – ‘paling in’t groen’, succulent eels cooked in a rich parsley sauce.

FOOD&DRINK
L.E.S.S.
One of the Michelin-starred restaurants overseen by stellar Flemish chef Gert De Mangeleer, L.E.S.S. may have an odd name – Love, Eat, Share, Smile – but this funky diner succeeds brilliantly in its aim to present accessible gastronomy. The ambiance is cool and casual, with the hottest seats at the kitchen counter watching the brigade of chefs at work.

The menu is created with sharing dishes in mind, be it slices of a Holstein Tomahawk steak, glazed eel, Dan Dan noodles or a Peruvian-style device made with North Sea fish. While the products are essentially local, the influences in De Mangeleer’s cuisine is resolutely global, with influences from his travels to South America and Asia.

Goesepitte 43
Visitors rarely discover this discrete restaurant by chance, an insider address hidden down a narrow backstreet near the Saint Saviour cathedral. Chef Jan Supply creates an affordable gastronomy menu, strong on seasonal vegetables and North Sea seafood.

In the kitchen he often uses a Mibrasa charcoal oven which is especially effective grilling endives, cabbage and leeks as well as his signature dry aged steaks. Excellent wine list, including several Belgian vineyards, and as the minimalist contemporary dining room only seats 20, it is best to reserve in advance.

Books and Brunch
Tucked away in a quiet corner of town just opposite the 16th century St Trudo almshouse, this cosy bookshop cantina has been welcoming foodies and bibliophiles for the last ten years since friendly owners Jos and Tabitha Deroo first opened up. There are some 5,000 second hand books lining the walls, including an English corner and sections devoted to travel, cooking and kids books, but Jos admits that ,”while the books draw people in, it is the food that keeps everyone coming back.

We propose a menu that includes organic, vegetarian, vegan and gluten free dishes so everyone can feel welcome here ” They serve continuously from breakfast through till late afternoon, with a clientele that mixes local families and students with cosmopolitan tourists.

Difficult to resist the salmon bagel or Belgian waffles with maple syrup and bacon, while the Dame Blanche desert is to die for. In addition to barista coffee and herbal teas, they serve craft gin and tonic, Trappist ales and homemade lemonade.

ARTY STAY
Hotel Portinari

Perfectly located by the Concertgebouw, this friendly hotel is named after the renowned 15th century Bruges cultural patron, Tommaso Portinari, and all their decor follows an artistic theme. Each room features an iconic painting, such as Magritte’s bowler hat and apple portrait, with surrealist creations in the lobby, funky graffiti murals in the breakfast room, while in a nostalgic touch, the lift is plastered with old black and white postcards of the city.

And just next door is the healthy diner, Nomad, which specialises in locavore dishes with kilometre zero carbon footprint.

INTRODUCTION
Picturesque Leuven may be only half an hour by train from the bustling metropolis of Brussels, but it is a genuine hidden secret as far as tourism is concerned, with barely a souvenir shop to be found.

It may have missed out on the chance to be a capital city to Brussels back in the 13th century but the establishment of one of the world’s oldest universities here in 1425 has made it an important centre of learning for science and the arts. Resembling a Flemish version of Oxford and Cambridge, the city’s ancient university colleges remain for the most part closed off to the public, hidden behind their red brick walls, but there is an ambitious plan to open for visits to celebrate the 600th anniversary in 2025. What are not hidden to the public are the 50,000 students who make their temporary home here each year, creating both a lively nightlife scene and a vibrant calendar of contemporary art, music and dance. All this contrasts with the intense sense of history that permeates Leuven, from its grand Gothic architecture to Old Masters from the era of Flemish Primitivism.

Must See

Grote Markt
The first thing that every visitor to Leuven does is head straight to its incomparable Grand Square, site of two landmark buildings that both in their way, symbolise this surprising city. While much of Leuven’s architectural heritage was severely damaged during both World Wars, the 15th century Gothic town hall escaped almost unscathed, leaving intact its fairytale turrets and ornamental façade decorated with some 236 intricate statues. The sumptuous interiors are also impressive and while the tourist office already organises regular visits there are plans to turn it into a full-time visitor experience. Right opposite stands the monumental Saint Peter’s Church, whose origins go back a thousand years. While the present building is in the same Gothic style as the town hall, much was rebuilt after
bombing at the end of World War Two.

The artworks though survived damage, a treasure trove of Flemish Primitivism, including an exquisite 1442 sculpture of the Madonna and Child by Nicolaas de Bruyne and a masterpiece interpretation of the Last Supper by Dieric Bouts.

There is an Augmented Reality guide of the artworks, and from October 2023 the exhibition “DIERIC BOUTS. Creator of Images” will showcase paintings by Bouts lent by collections around the world..

M Leuven
It is no understatement to describe Leuven’s cutting edge M Museum as a work of art in itself.

Right in the midst of a busy shopping street, passers-by find themselves standing opposite a Neoclassical colonnaded entrance arch which is just a front for a futuristic three-floored building of sharp zigzag lines, white Italian travetine stone and glass, created in 2009 by leading Belgian architect, Stéphane Beel. This juxtaposition is a recurring theme throughout the museum which makes extensive use of its massive 58,000 piece collection, spanning medieval paintings to avant-garde sculptures, continually confronting and questioning the visitor.

A kitsch Japanese maneki-neko waving cat stands next to an a religious statue of Saint Anthony of Padua, a minimalist geometric abstract painting hangs alongside a romantic 18th century Old Master by Flemish painter Pieter Jozef Verhaghen. And there are always challenging temporary exhibitions running throughout the year. Be sure to carry on to the rooftop where there are great views over the city.

Hidden Gems
Street Art

Street art in Leuven is serious affair, a long term municipal programme to encourage young local artists rather than the more anarchic graffiti you see decorating the walls of other art cities. Taking a walk to track down surprising street art is the perfect way to discover Leuven on foot, either following the Tourist Office’s detailed map or downloading a recent App dedicated to these colourful murals. There are over 200 creations spread out over the whole city, with 70 eye-catching works concentrated in the historic centre.

Everyone has their own favourite street art mural, but two pieces are definitely worth tracking down; ‘The Red Line’, painted by neighbourhood school students, and the wonderfully surreal Verwarr(m)ing radiator by Leuven’s favourite graphic artist, Bisser, who has now become known on the international street art stage.

STUK

Ten minutes from the town hall and St Peter’s church, walking down the busy Naamsestraat you can’t miss the giant PopArt-style letters STUK dominating the façade of a Neogothic redbruick building. This is the home of Leuven’s agenda-setting House for Dance, Image and Sound
known to everyone by its Flemish acronym, STUK, the city’s flagship venue for a vibrant cultural scene that extends to dance and music, exhibitions, installations, theatre and film.

There is a friendly cafe inside and in any one week you could catch a contemporary dance performance, electronic music concert, a surrealist video installation, a techno clubbing night. Right now the STUK is coming to end of a major renovation, and locals and tourists alike await its grand reopening, scheduled for the summer.

Small Beguinage

A must-see near the top of the list for most visitors to Leuven is the sprawling Great Beguinage, a community of buildings founded in the 13th century for female religious orders and lay workers that became almost a small town itself, a maze of courtyards, gardens and redbrick houses, mostly inhabited today by university students. But curious visitors should also make the effort to head right over to the other side of town to a neighbourhood around the landmark Stella Artois brewery that is currently undergoing a lively urban regeneration to discover the little-visited Small Beguinage, that also dates back 800 years.

A single cobbled alleyway of tiny whitewashed cottages with evocative names like Nazareth runs off the Gothic St Gertrude Church, while a gatehouse suddenly opens out onto St Gertrude’s ancient abbey, a park and the grassy bank of the Dyle river.

Bittersweet

Every Belgian city has a mouthwatering selection of chocolatiers, but the most famous artisan chocolate maker in Leuven has also made name for itself for its provocative creations.

In a tiny boutique on the main shopping drag running from the station into the town centre, Bittersweet is part showroom, part laboratory for the handmade artistic designs that push the boundaries of taste, colours and shapes.

A surreal-looking yellow praline resembling a Lego brick is called Heroin, while other popular chocolates are named Skull, Espresso Yourself, Robotski, Corn Porn and Brainfood. Customers seduced by these original ideas for the humble praline can also sign up for a hands-on chocolate making course in the back of the boutique.

Local Foodies
De Coureur

Bart and Ine Delvaux became enthusiastic home brewers of craft ales when living in Chicago, and on returning home to Flanders made a decision to change career and open their own microbrewery in the suburbs of Leuven. It took a year to convert an old car workshop into a funky taproom, hidden behind a colourful graffiti-covered door. Since 2020, Bart has created over 50 different small batch brews – American IPA, sour gueuze, a chocolaty stout, blonde tripel – only served on tap so beer fans have to make a pilgrimage to De Coureur to taste them.

There are always 9 or 10 on tap, and apart from selling tasty sausages made by the local butcher, customers are allowed to bring in their own food for an impromptu picnic or order in from a delivery app.

Green Space
Botanical Garden

The origins of Leuven’s historic botanical gardens dates back as far as 1738 when the University’s Professor of Medicine began to grow plants and herbs for his research. Today, while the curators of the gardens still cultivate an impressive array of exotic plants, colourful flowers and fragrant herbs, in practice, this peaceful oasis of green space has become the unofficial town park, popular for picnics with locals and tourists alike. Guests walk in through a grand walled arch and wander past ornamental ponds, a tiny lake, educative plots of herbs, the steamy tropical jungle interiors of the greenhouse and temporary art and sculpture exhibitions held in the Orangery.

The gardens are especially beautiful in March when daffodils bloom, followed by cherry blossoms in April, then wisteria covering the wall of the Orangery explodes into deep shades of purple in May.

Markets
Saturday Market
While Leuven’s main food market is held every Friday morning on the huge expanse of the Ladeuzeplein square in front of the University Library, travellers in-the-know will wait to do their shopping till the next day, when a very different kind of casual market sets up its stalls on Mathieu de Layensplein, in the Brusselsestraat and side streets around.around St Peter’s church.

This is a favourite meeting place for locals, either to browse the stands or sit out on one of the many cafe terraces. Bargain-hunters head for the artisan crafts, antiques and bric-a-brac specialists interspersed between bakery and cheese sellers, colourful flower vendors and some tempting food trucks. Difficult to resist a cornet of piping-hot frites smothered with mayonnaise or a warming bowl of ‘escargots’, another surprising local speciality that are actually sea snails or whelks cooked in a tasty broth rather than the more well-known garlicky French-style snails.

Out of Town
Park Abbey

A quick ten minute bus or bike ride from Leuven’s centre brings you into the countryside and the breathtaking Park Abbey. Founded in the Middle Ages by French Norbertin monks, the present buildings are primarily 17th century, surrounded by a sprawling estate of lakes and forests, vegetable gardens and orchards, meadows where a herd of the Abbey’s cows graze. Just 5 monks live here today as the city council has taken over the maintenance of the many buildings, which since last year are now both open to the public and functioning as they were back in medieval times. While families picnic and ramble by the waterside, a tour of the Abbey takes you through silent cloisters decorated with ancient stained glass windows, the monk’s grand refectory, the ceiling decorated with stucco figures so realistic they could be 3 dimensional, the Abbot’s luxurious residence and an ancient library. Contemporary art exhibitions are held regularly as well as polyphonic concerts.

But in parallel to this, a dynamic brewer has set up a craft microbrewery in the abbey, farmers cultivate organic vegetables and make delicious cheeses from the cows milk, a bee keeper produces honey, fruit juices are made from the apple orchard, there is a cafe and brasserie.

FOOD&DRINK
Taste
This warm, welcoming restaurant offers a seductive contrast of gourmet fine dining cuisine in a relaxed, casual ambiance.

Guests are greeted like long lost friends by hosts Bart and Dorotee, making everyone immediately feel at home before chef Bart disappears into his cuisine while Dorotee flits from table to table enthusiastically explaining the evenings wine pairings. For the full experience, order a tasting menu where the chef produces surprising dishes reflecting his commitment to seasonal products, local cheesemakers and sustainable North Sea fishing. Depending on the changing monthly menu, you could enjoy green asparagus with pork belly, razor clams and cockles or home-smoked eel with radish and caviar.

De Klimop
Perfectly located right opposite Leuven’s train station, kick off of a tour of the town with feast of traditional Flemish recipes at this grand old-fashioned brasserie. While certain favourites are always on the menu – stoofvlees, beef slow cooked in a rich beer sauce, puff pastry vol-au-vent filed with succulent sweetbreads – always check the seasonal specials.

In spring, plump white asparagus with a creamy hollandaise sauce, mussels from the North Sea, and venison, wild boar and hare in the winter game season. The dining room quickly fills up from noon onwards with loyal locals obviously here for the serious home cooking, with the ebullient owner, Pieter Konijn, delightfully explaining to bemused tourists that his name translates as Peter Rabbit.

Cafe Commerce

With its huge student population, Leuven seems to have a bar or cafe on every street corner. The most popular hangout is the grand Oude Markt square where every side is lined only with bars, clubs and restaurants, partying most nights till the early morning. But to experience the perfect slice of local life head to the historic Cafe Commerce which looks out on the city’s iconic University Library. Pretty much unchanged since it opened in 1864, this is a classic Brown Cafe with bare wooden tables; a flashback into the past with no Spotify playlist, no wifi, locals chatting about politics and sport, reading the newspaper or book.

The food is simple, cheap and hearty – homemade soup, spaghetti bolognese, sandwich américain. And the kitchen serves till 10pm while with bar pulls up the shutters at 2 in the morning.

ARTY STAY
Martin’s Kloosterhotel

Perfectly blending in with Leuven’s medieval redbrick university colleges, the Klooster hotel’s comfortable rooms spread across a modern building and ancient convent cloisters that date back 500 years with turrets, oak beams and lattice windows. There is a cosy bar, while breakfast is served in a sunny glass conservatory looking out over a verdant garden.